Interview with Chef Jeremy Sewall

Award-winning Boston Chef, Jeremy Sewall, participated in an interview with Stronger America Through Seafood (SATS) about his support for aquaculture and involvement in a University of New Hampshire aquaculture project.

Chef Sewall is the Chef/Owner of Island Creek Oyster Bar, Lineage, Row 34 Portsmouth and Row34 Fort Point.

Fishing has been part of the Sewall family’s livelihood for generations and continues to be important to Chef Sewall today. Chef Sewall sources lobster for his restaurants from his cousin, Mark Sewall, the captain of a 38-foot boat that operates out of York Harbor in Maine.

With his fisherman roots, in 2018 Chef Sewall partnered with the University of New Hampshire and the New Hampshire Sea Grant to farm Steelhead Trout. The University’s program was established to find sustainable and efficient ways to grow steelhead trout locally to help source restaurants with quality fish. The program uses a prototype IMTA (Integrated multi-trophic aquaculture) floating platform off the coast of New Castle, New Hampshire. The IMTA system also houses seaweed and mussels.

Farmed seafood is regularly featured on your menu. Where did your support of farmed seafood come from?

I look at farmed seafood in two categories, fin fish and shellfish.  My support for shellfish came from my love of oysters, learning about the process of farming seafood, and understanding the importance of having consistent quality shellfish, which is completely vital to most chefs. The opportunity to have clams, oysters, mussels and beyond on both coasts is vital to the seafood industry.

Fin fish is also a great way to have consistent product but unlike shellfish, fin fish has a little more challenge with perception. There are different kinds of farmed fish from all over, finding a quality fish that is responsibly raised is important. Supporting the industry that uses good practices in farming is important.

You have been involved in the University of New Hampshire (UNH)’s integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA) system. Can you tell us about the project and how you got involved?

I found them by accident on social media and got a few of the fish they raised. The quality was amazing and learning about the process was very educational. UNH was winding down the project and I felt like I wanted to help keep it going. I started participating with them a few years ago and it has been an opportunity to advocate for this method of ocean farming.

What opportunities do you see resulting from the responsible expansion of offshore aquaculture here in the U.S.?

I think farming the ocean is inevitable, doing it responsibly is going to be the most important part of that. I hope coastal communities and fishermen can play a role in the expansion. Fishermen do not want to give up ocean bottom to farm fish rather than catch it. They need to be a part of the process; it will create generational opportunity.

Some people have concerns about aquaculture. What would you tell those people about aquaculture to help them be more receptive to it?

The worst aquaculture is better for the planet than most land-based animal farming as far as fin fish. Shellfish farming is actually great for water quality, oysters love to clean our water for us. Farmed raised fish is like any product you buy, learn about it and make choices that feel ok with you.